There seems to be a sharp inhale of apprehension when a new painter hears the words “airbrush” and “miniature painting” in the same sentence. On social media, there is no question that airbrush work has produced some incredible pieces of art. However, there seems to be this intangible, impassible brick wall for new and experienced painters when it comes time for them to actually pick up the airbrush and try their hand with it. The truth is that it’s just like anything else with art: you have to practice with it before you develop the control you need. Also like most art tools, using poor quality devices can quickly generate frustration and do a lot of damage to developing your painting confidence.
We, Randy and Alec, have spent a combined 20+ years of painting, and we were recently provided with the Iwata Eclipse, the popular, high-performance, multi-purpose, dual-action airbrush that many miniature painters and artists use. Also, we were provided with the NuWorlds Airbrush Paint line from Medea and Iwata. Marketed as a “prime ready” airpaint, it can be applied directly to the model as a primer coat, allowing the model to be quickly painted up.
Using a few different models from different companies, we tested out the Eclipse to see if it could break down that barrier, remove the apprehension, and provide an entry into the airbrushing world.
Unboxing the Iwata Eclipse
The Iwata Eclipse and Airbrush Cleaning Kit provide you with everything you need, outside of an air compressor. The airbrush comes fully assembled, and includes a small wrench and lubricant, which is used for all the moving parts for the dual-action mechanism. The cleaning kit comes with everything you need to clean, scrub, and wipe your Airbrush to as close as factory-clean as possible. We’ll go more into cleaning later on, but this kit comes with some unique tools, including a nozzle wrench (because nozzles are tiny as heck) and a thread sealer (Portland bee balm) which helps create and keep a tight seal between the airbrush hose connection (the threaded part at the bottom) and the air hose to the compressor.
The magnifying glass with a light is a nice little tool!
NuWorlds Paints
The NuWorlds Paints come in sets of three colors, each including the airbrush wash medium. Even though the paints are designed to be airbrush, we do recommend using a little airbrush medium, whether it’s the Wash Medium or other brand, to help with flow control and prevent clogging of the air paints. Since these paints are designed for priming, the colors are about as midrange as you can get. However, you can also mix them together if you’re looking for a specific color for your Space Marine chapter, or armor for your tanks.
Using the Iwata Airbrush and NuWorlds Paint
Alec: I tried a couple of combinations of paints and models, focusing on experimenting with base airbrushing, mixing colors, and OSL.
The first test was using the NuWorlds Impenetrable Chrome Yellow as a base for the Tau Twin Lance, and incrementally adding in the Zenith White. The intention here was to provide a base for highlights and midtones on the model so that, with a brush, I could go back in, blend a little, and add in panel accents. I would say that I mostly achieved this, although my airbrushing skills have a lot of room for improvement. I didn’t notice any flow issue with mixing paints, so that was nice. In the past I have experienced air paint lines having different consistencies between colors.
With the Tau suits, I also utilized the airbrush to get some OSL (object-source lighting) on their big weapons. To help color match the project, I used Citadel’s Temple Guard Blue Air paint. After using NuWorlds, the Citadel Air Paint line was noticeably more viscous. After thinning it down, I had no more issues with splatter and was able to apply a nice, even “glow” look to their cannons.
With the NuWorlds claim that it can be used as a primer, my next test was for the Monster Fight Club Herakles Dropship. Substantially larger than the Tau, the goal was to only use NuWorlds paint, with the base coat being Zenith Black. With how small the nozzle was on the airbrush, this took me quite a while to complete on all of the pieces. Something I noticed right away was that the paint had a glossier sheen to it than just a regular Rustoleum Flat Black Primer (which is what I normally used). However, having the flexibility to get into all of the nooks and crannies inside and outside of the dropship was very helpful. Unlike a rattle can, which would have left areas unprimed, the airbrush allowed me to evenly apply the paint everywhere. Over the top of the black, I applied a 1:1 Zenith Black and Code Blue to help give a very subtle visual break of just black.
Lastly, with the experimentation, I used NuWorlds Impenetrable Red and Vallejo Escorpena Green to do some OSL work on the lights and interior panels. I dialed in the trigger to have just the smallest spray radius, which gave me greater control for some of those smaller areas. I was very pleased with the flow and consistency of both colors, and incredibly happy with the outcome.
With the Herakles completed, it's now ready for the table!
You can check out the full, written, paint tutorial of the Zetatech Herakles from Monster Fight Club below.
I did use the NuWorlds to brush on primer onto a few spots I missed on some other figures and bases and there was no issue with doing that. So, airbrush or paint brush, NuWorlds works.
With the variations in usages of the airbrush, I found I spent more time actually painting instead fighting with the paint/airflow and dialing in the mixtures. Of course, cleaning always takes time, and I made sure to clean the reservoir and needle thoroughly between color sets.
Randy:
Ok, without being too flamboyant, I think I’m never going to need primer again. The NuWorlds paint was awesome at immediately providing results. I took the new terrain from the Trench Crusade Carcass Front and laid down a layer of Diseased Umber, which is a darkish green brown, and then the top half got a layer of Vile Green. I found that I could mix them in the Iwata cup with maybe 2 drops of flow improver, and they worked perfectly.
To bring up the tones, I added in some Chrome Yellow, and the paint blended perfectly. As you can see in the photos, I pretty much had something ready for the table very quickly. Maybe 10-15 minutes of work?
For the tank terrain, I added Blood Red to the mix to try to get an iron-ish color. Light Neutral Flesh came in clutch as a tone that could bring up all my highlights on these pieces.
And yes, it’s true: the paint didn’t need primer. It adhered perfectly, even to areas of the models I had previously altered with texture paints and a chemically enhanced rust texture. Totally surprising.
Next, I turned to Nimrod, from Marvel Crisis Protocol. Starting with Zenith Black, I started bringing this up to a gray/white color, as the majority of Nimrod is white, and I really wanted to see if all of the paints are consistently great and they are.
The only thing I’ll call out about the paint is that it dries a little glossy, but you can fix that with some post painting varnishing, so that’s not an issue.
As for the airbrush, to quote Thanos, it’s “perfectly balanced, as all things should be”. Versus my other airbrushes, it has the weight of something that feels luxurious. I know that’s a weird thing to say but it has a weight that feels great in the hand. My thumb didn’t get tired during my session.Spray quality rules. I’ve never used such a great airbrush before.
Caring for your Airbrush
Probably more important than the painting itself is the care for your airbrush. The truth is that you’re going to spend as much time cleaning your airbrush as you will painting; that is, if you want to have your brush last a long time. Leaving paint residue, or even cleaning residue, can cause blockages or the mechanisms to seize up. This means that you’re going to be spending as much time cleaning as you are painting.
Don’t use water to clean your airbrush, and certainly don’t use harsh degreasing chemicals as that will damage the metal parts, needle, and stainless steel. The Iwata cleaning kit has everything you need to thoroughly clean your airbrush. I would get an airbrush cleaning pot, as it helps keep the cleaning spray fumes contained.
Alec: Unlike some other kits I’ve purchased and seen in the past, this one does come with a little bit of everything you’re going to need for the few uses and cleanings. If you are going to be airbrushing a lot, then you’re going to need more airbrush cleaner fluid and the pipe cleaners. Remember, don’t use facial tissues or paper towels, as tiny little bits of the paper can come off and then get lodged. The Bee Balm is a really nice alternative to Teflon tape, although both make the best sealant. My last comment is on the Nozzle Wrench, which is truly fantastic and actually functional.
Randy: I like the fumes. Personally, I need to add that the Iwata Cleaning Kit has an excellent surfactant blended cleaner which was wildly nice but more importantly, the cleaning brush in the kit is worth the entry fee alone. It perfectly cleaned up my airbrush and I didn’t feel the need to deep clean.
el toro
Final Thoughts
Alec: After a decade+ of using (and getting extremely frustrated with) various airbrushes, Iwata is now my go-to airbrush because it sets you up for success. Using an Iwata is like dancing a waltz with airbrushing. I spent more time painting and blending with the Iwata than trying to get it to work, which comes from a mixture of poor quality parts and airflow you’ll find on lower-end airbrushes. I didn’t have any plugs or spurts, regardless of the air paint line I used. In fact, I used the NuWorlds on another airbrush and that airbrush clogged up right away, requiring me to use even more airbrush thinner.
Even though the NuWorlds paints came out a little glossy for me, there are some ways to mitigate that by either incorporating matte flow medium into the airbrush or by sealing it with a matte sealer. Overall, NuWorlds paint is really well mixed and is perfect for a “pick up and go” work-style like mine.
Randy: When judging a tool, it comes down to the little things. For me, the way the Eclipse feels in the hand, how easy it was to spray paint, ease of use on the trigger finger…I feel like I could just spend an entire day spraying with the Eclipse and not have any issues.
For the NuWorlds Paint, these come from a company that specializes in automotive paint, so I was weary at first, but immediately saw the promise come true. And while these paints aren’t the fanciest, nor are they the most colorful…they do something very different from the rest of the industry, and that’s why they stand out and are worth a greater look from a consumer.
Iwata Eclipse
Phenomenal
The Iwata Eclipse is an entry level airbrush that doesn’t feel entry level. It’s a perfect tool.
Pros
- Easy to hold design
- Smooth mechanisms
- Easy to clean
- No clogs
- Easy to break down
Cons
- Limited adjustability
This review is based on a retail copy provided by the publisher.
NuWorlds Paints
Excellent
Nuworlds paints promise no primer necessary and fulfill that promise along with great base tones.
Pros
- No primer needed!
- Great consistency
- Great with a brush or airbrush
Cons
- Slightly glossy finish
- Somewhat limited paint range selection
This review is based on a retail copy provided by the publisher.
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