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Author Topic: New rig  (Read 997 times)
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Greg Wak
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« on: January 23, 2014, 02:53:05 PM »

Parts that aren't listed here are being swapped over from my old rig as I'm-gulp- putting this together my self. Any thoughts/critiques are welcome:

Intel core i5 4670 Haswell 3.4 gigHz LGA 1150.
ASUS Z87-plus LGA 1150 Intel Z87
PNY VCGGTX 7702XPB-OC
G. Skill sniper series 8GB 2x4GB 240 pin DDR3 2400 desktop memory
 Antec True power classic series TP-750c 750W 80 plus gold certified power supply
IN WIN GRone White .8mmm SECC steel ATX Full tower computer case.

I know it's all compatible and the PS may be a bit of an overkill. Just wondering if it looks like a decent set up.
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Turtle
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« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2014, 10:09:10 PM »

The only time a power supply is overkill is if it's overpriced and not a energy efficient, aka it provides only enough power that your system draws and doesn't waste electricity. Otherwise, that power supply should last you a long time. I'm on the third PC with the same power supply.  Just make sure to schedule a dust cleaning every so often, and if the fan gets noisy anyway, you can give it some sewing machine oil.
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2014, 10:46:53 PM »

Thanks Turtle!
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Mystic95Z
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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2014, 12:02:07 PM »

I'd go with the K version of the cpu, they are unlocked and easily overclock quite a bit on air cooling. My i5 2500k (3.3ghz) runs stable at 4.2ghz with just air cooling.
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2014, 01:43:01 PM »

Quote from: Mystic95Z on January 24, 2014, 12:02:07 PM

I'd go with the K version of the cpu, they are unlocked and easily overclock quite a bit on air cooling. My i5 2500k (3.3ghz) runs stable at 4.2ghz with just air cooling.

Do you just overclock in the bios? I've never tried to OC anything before.
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Mystic95Z
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« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2014, 02:42:40 PM »

Quote from: Greg Wak on January 24, 2014, 01:43:01 PM

Quote from: Mystic95Z on January 24, 2014, 12:02:07 PM

I'd go with the K version of the cpu, they are unlocked and easily overclock quite a bit on air cooling. My i5 2500k (3.3ghz) runs stable at 4.2ghz with just air cooling.

Do you just overclock in the bios? I've never tried to OC anything before.

Yep in the BIOS on my Gigabyte board all I had to do was change the multiplier to 42 and then slightly up the CPU vCore voltage a bit at a time until I got a stable Prime95 run. I didn't have to up it much and it seems to vary on what you need from CPU to CPU but I am well within the safety margins and it'll have been running OC'd in May for two years.
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2014, 09:24:13 PM »

Parts are coming Tuesday!!! Went with i7 4770K after all that. Found it at Microcenter for $279.   So looking forward to building my first rig. Famous last words. eek
Also got a free copy of AC IV.  Love the series. wouldn't have played it til 2015 when it hit my price point.
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TheAtomicKid
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« Reply #7 on: January 27, 2014, 12:48:30 PM »

Things to remember

1: cpu paste... a little goes a long way. you should use a pea-sized bit at the center of the _clean_ cpu heatspreader, and you can use the pressure-spread technique. the clamping pressure of the heatsink will spread the paste where it needs to go. there are OTHER techniques, such as trying to make a line along the row of cores, spreading it with a credit card or some other very clean implement before installing the heatsink, but for a rookie, this is easiest, and works extremely well.

you do NOT want an 'oreo cookie' with your cpu and the heatsink as the two outside bits. the paste should spread out so thin you can see through it in most areas... remember, it's basically there to fill the microscopic gaps in the supposedly smooth surfaces... not to become the heat transport itself.... enough paste will actually insulate your cpu.

2: dont forget your pci-e cable(s), and your cpu 12v cable(s).

3: fans. remember to plug in the fans.

4: if you have the necessary bits, installing windows from a usb stick is a lot faster than an optical drive. a LOT faster.

5: if you're using the crappy default intel cooler... that thing in #1 doesnt really apply... however, when you overclock it with this cooler installed, don't come whining here about how the nasty smoke got out and ruined your carpet biggrin
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #8 on: January 27, 2014, 01:49:48 PM »

Thanks for the tips!  Is the default cooler really that bad?
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JCC
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« Reply #9 on: January 27, 2014, 05:45:57 PM »

Quote from: Greg Wak on January 27, 2014, 01:49:48 PM

Thanks for the tips!  Is the default cooler really that bad?

I think conventional wisdom is that the default cooler is ok if you don't want to over clock the CPU.
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-John

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Greg Wak
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« Reply #10 on: January 27, 2014, 06:23:10 PM »

Yeah but since I have the "K" version I may as well push it a bit.
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TheAtomicKid
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« Reply #11 on: January 27, 2014, 10:27:54 PM »

If you intend to play with it, source yourself an upgraded cooler. The default is 'sufficient'...it is not 'good', and it is not optimal.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

Those are good, though not 'the best', but it won't break the bank. (note the rating, which is faulty at Newegg these days, but if you pan around the reviews, the 212 evo is well respected)

Atomic

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/cm_hyper212_evo/4.htm

note the difference between the evo and the stock cooler... especially the overclocked load... at this point the default cooler is causing the chip to throttle
« Last Edit: January 27, 2014, 10:32:23 PM by TheAtomicKid » Logged
Greg Wak
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« Reply #12 on: January 28, 2014, 12:50:24 AM »

Goddammit, fine. Should have done this bit of homework earlier. All my parts are coming tomorrow. I hadn't ordered an aftermarket cooler because I hadn't done that part of the research yet. I had kind of settled on the Evo 212 or the silvertone arctic but going around today I discovered that nobody here stocks anything. Bestbuy is a sad joke. Two local shops turned out to be just repair shops that hardly stock any parts. Microcenter it is, but thats a 45 min drive with no traffic. As ugly as that is, I'm not sitting around for 2-3 days with all my parts waiting for a fan to come in.
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JCC
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« Reply #13 on: January 28, 2014, 02:49:33 AM »

Just don't overclock it. Install with the stock cooler. If a day comes when you want to squeeze more out of your CPU then buy a new cooler.
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-John

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Greg Wak
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« Reply #14 on: January 28, 2014, 03:01:49 AM »

I thought of that JCC, but I'm so on the fence. However, the only thing I really care about is playing games with the detail cranked, and OC'ing won't make much of a difference one way or the other. But then I think I have a K version for no reason.
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JCC
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« Reply #15 on: January 28, 2014, 04:33:25 AM »

Quote from: Greg Wak on January 28, 2014, 03:01:49 AM

I thought of that JCC, but I'm so on the fence. However, the only thing I really care about is playing games with the detail cranked, and OC'ing won't make much of a difference one way or the other. But then I think I have a K version for no reason.

At this point, I think you should be fine performance wise without any tinkering with the CPU. And, it's not like it's that onerous to swap out the heatsink later if and when you do decide to dabble with overclocking.
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-John

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Mystic95Z
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« Reply #16 on: January 28, 2014, 11:57:17 AM »

The Hyper 212 EVO is the cooler I use, effective and quiet.
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #17 on: January 28, 2014, 01:42:33 PM »

Parts are on the UPS truck and out for delivery!
Some more help please. I do have a non OEM version of Windows 7 I will be installing. I'm reusing my current HD. So what happens when I first power up? Will it ask for the OS DVD?
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Mystic95Z
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« Reply #18 on: January 28, 2014, 02:56:42 PM »

Depends on if there is already an OS on the HD you are using and what the boot order is set to in the BIOS.
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #19 on: January 28, 2014, 05:41:35 PM »

There is already an OS on the HD. It's a brand new MOBO so I would guess it's the usual order, USB, optical, HD.
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Mystic95Z
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« Reply #20 on: January 28, 2014, 05:50:33 PM »

Well if optical is before HD in the bios and the HD is bootable you should get a prompt to hit a key to boot from optical if a bootable CD/DVD is in the drive, if you dont press said key in a few secs it will generally just boot from the next avail device in the list.
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #21 on: January 28, 2014, 05:57:07 PM »

so you just power up the computer and put the window disc in the drive right away?
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Mystic95Z
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« Reply #22 on: January 28, 2014, 07:37:50 PM »

Pretty much, but I would go into bios first and check boot priority. Also don't fidget with any overclocking until you have a stable system at stock settings and I would run a round of prime 95 at stock settings as you can get a bad component that can cause random crashes etc.
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #23 on: January 28, 2014, 07:57:23 PM »

Thanks for the help. No way am I looking to OC until I'm sure I have everything stable and back in place.
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TheAtomicKid
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« Reply #24 on: January 30, 2014, 06:28:25 AM »

*drums fingers impatiently*
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #25 on: January 30, 2014, 08:14:03 PM »

Thanks for the interest Tongue Took me 5.5 hrs to put it all together. The in Win case, while awesome, had a manual the consisted of 10 pictures with almost no words. Having never done this before, I struggled. The stuff I thought would be scary/hard, like putting the cpu in the socket and the fan on and the mobo lined up and in the case, turned out to be fairly straight forward. The hard stuff was all the case headers and fan wires and figuring out for sure where they plug into on the mobo. So the big moment comes, I power it up, it lights up and spins up and....the monitor stays dark. Ooops, I have the DVI cable hooked up to the mobo not the 770gtx. power down, move it, power up, and everything is golden. Get 7.1 64 bit installed, great. reload my stuff, well, some winds up all over the place but it's okay. Take out the ASUS disc and load the drivers, it says it will reboot the system several times in the process. All proceeds well until....the last reboot, where my USB ports all go away. ARRRGHH!!! Much research on the IPAD later, it's a known issue, bad USB driver on the disc. So how to get a new one in there with no M/K. Well, there is a PS2 port. I have an old PS2 keyboard at work. Bring it home, can't quite navigate the web with no mouse. So I get a PS2 splitter. Was sure I had the answer. Nope, devices didn't like the splitter, wouldn't work. So while staring at the windows log in screen with the mouse in the ps2, I see the "make windows easier" or whatever button in the lower left. Click on it, oh my, use windows without a keyboard. Boom, get to ASUS, load an updated driver, all fixed.

So far very cool quiet stable system. CPU at 30c at idle. Haven't stressed it yet, just about to start it.

Just played Far Cry 3 for an hr + on max. I happened to be in the middle of the game when I built the rig, wouldn't have neccessarily been my first choice, but it does look fun. CPU was 54C and GPU was 74. The 74 made me a tad urpy but looking on line it seems in line with norm. I think I'm good.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2014, 10:40:20 PM by Greg Wak » Logged
TheAtomicKid
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« Reply #26 on: January 31, 2014, 06:37:26 AM »

Nice job for a first install, especially given the stiffer than normal opposition. Bad usb driver would have a lot of people redoing the entire procedure.

Was panning around 770 reviews since I couldnt find your specific card... the 74c seems to be more on the low side of norm, especially given the overclock. If it still bothers you, you can use msi afterburner or evga's precision-x utility to alter the fan profile without having to tinker with anything else. Given what you've done so far, you won't have any problem figuring out the steps.

You can also pay attention to how the airflow in your case works, and 'tune' it to better serve your gpu by moving/shifting things around. I see bottom vents for air... you could add a fan on one of those, and as long as its not one of the silverstone air penetrator designs, the 'spray' from the fan should land right about where your gpu intakes air, once you tidy up the psu cabling so it doesn't block. That should net you a degree or two...

Atomic
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #27 on: January 31, 2014, 01:49:26 PM »

Thanks so much! Low side of normal works for me!
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #28 on: February 10, 2014, 05:39:13 PM »

Just wanted to say my i7 4770K and PNY GTX 770 with 8 gigs of Ram on an Asus Z87-plus board is working very nice. Playing AC-BF maxed, even if "only" at 1650x1080 is perfectly fluid and whisper quiet. All I could have asked for. Nice to not have to worry about game specs for a while.
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jztemple2
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« Reply #29 on: February 11, 2014, 04:02:09 AM »

Quote from: Greg Wak on February 10, 2014, 05:39:13 PM

Just wanted to say my i7 4770K and PNY GTX 770 with 8 gigs of Ram on an Asus Z87-plus board is working very nice. Playing AC-BF maxed, even if "only" at 1650x1080 is perfectly fluid and whisper quiet. All I could have asked for. Nice to not have to worry about game specs for a while.

Nice to see you are happy with it. I just put in my order for my new rig, same processor and motherboard but a GTX 780 video card instead. I also went with the 750 watt power supply. And I broke down and got a 480GB SSD for the OS and games, the rest on the HDD. Now I just have to wait a couple of weeks...  Roll Eyes
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Greg Wak
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« Reply #30 on: February 11, 2014, 04:53:43 PM »

Quote from: jztemple2 on February 11, 2014, 04:02:09 AM

Quote from: Greg Wak on February 10, 2014, 05:39:13 PM

Just wanted to say my i7 4770K and PNY GTX 770 with 8 gigs of Ram on an Asus Z87-plus board is working very nice. Playing AC-BF maxed, even if "only" at 1650x1080 is perfectly fluid and whisper quiet. All I could have asked for. Nice to not have to worry about game specs for a while.

Nice to see you are happy with it. I just put in my order for my new rig, same processor and motherboard but a GTX 780 video card instead. I also went with the 750 watt power supply. And I broke down and got a 480GB SSD for the OS and games, the rest on the HDD. Now I just have to wait a couple of weeks...  Roll Eyes

What rez do you like to game at? Just curious. Since I have no desire to fork over for a new monitor I'm at 1650x1080 and my 770 is breezing through everything with all effects maxed. But then, I don't have Crysis 3 yet!
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JCC
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« Reply #31 on: February 11, 2014, 05:15:38 PM »

Quote from: Greg Wak on February 11, 2014, 04:53:43 PM

What rez do you like to game at? Just curious. Since I have no desire to fork over for a new monitor I'm at 1650x1080 and my 770 is breezing through everything with all effects maxed. But then, I don't have Crysis 3 yet!

I am pretty sure you mean 1680x1050. smile

I would guess most people who buy high end video cards are rocking at least a 1080p (1900x1080) or higher resolution. I would think your card will be more than good for quite a while. I think the current "sweet spot" for price vs performance is probably a 760. (I stare forlornly at my nearly 6 year old gaming pc with a 460 in it....)
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-John

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Greg Wak
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« Reply #32 on: February 11, 2014, 09:21:50 PM »

Quote from: JCC on February 11, 2014, 05:15:38 PM

Quote from: Greg Wak on February 11, 2014, 04:53:43 PM

What rez do you like to game at? Just curious. Since I have no desire to fork over for a new monitor I'm at 1650x1080 and my 770 is breezing through everything with all effects maxed. But then, I don't have Crysis 3 yet!

I am pretty sure you mean 1680x1050. smile

I would guess most people who buy high end video cards are rocking at least a 1080p (1900x1080) or higher resolution. I would think your card will be more than good for quite a while. I think the current "sweet spot" for price vs performance is probably a 760. (I stare forlornly at my nearly 6 year old gaming pc with a 460 in it....)
There is my dyslexia again Tongue

Yeah, a 460 is what I replaced.
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